I grabbed one of the free dispersed sites north of the proper campground -- I counted 6 available dispersed sites, most with a short hike-in. I was at site #4 which was the only sort of "drive up" site level enough for my minivan camper. No other dispersed sites were occupied. Beautiful scenery, very lush and quiet, you can hear the creek from all sites. I was there on a Wednesday night so didn't need a NFS permit. Never saw a ranger or host. Actual campground loop seemed half full with some RVs and car campers and the sites are very close to each other. The road getting there from I-40 can be done by any vehicle, but it is still rough -- lots of potholes that sneak up on you. Take it slow and watch out for cyclists too. I drove up to the Blue Ridge Parkway from the campground the next day, very slowly and carefully, and made it up in about 30-40 minutes. It was very peaceful and remote. I'd definitely come back.